Housed in the 1909 Madalin Hotel, this eatery — with its McKinley-era dining room and tavern with an ornately carved oak bar — offers diners a chance to relax in an inviting turn-of-the-century setting. Chef Brian Kaywork serves up a seasonally changing menu, although some favorites (including a sweetbread appetizer and the Madalin burger) have a permanent presence. All in all, Kaywork proves he has the chops to produce fancy food that doesn’t come off as ostentatious. original review