reviews: By EMILY DENITTO, new york times, December 17, 2006

DINING/TIVOLI

For a Wide Range of Tastes,
A Romantic Setting

THE young woman entered Madalin's Table on a recent Saturday wearing a lovely black dress, sparkling necklace -- and a bit of a grimace. Her date trailed behind her, handsome but, in his ripped jeans and grunge rocker's plaid shirt, a marked sartorial contrast. There was a palpable first-date awkwardness between them. Did the two have wildly different expectations? On a culinary level at least, they needn't have worried. Madalin's Table offers both the casual and the fancy, the hearty and the sophisticated, with equal success.

The restaurant is on the ground floor of the 11-room Madalin Hotel, a freshly renovated turn-of-the-century gem that has brought new luster to the tiny Dutchess County village of Tivoli. Though Madalin's Table opened only six months ago, it is already attracting lines of area farmers, second-home owners and even curious Manhattanites. Patrons have two seating options: the lively tavern, where tables ring a long carved wooden bar, and the dining room, where crystal candle holders refract soft light from each table and deep red damask wallpaper and antiques are well suited to the 1909 building. Similarly, the menu, from salads, sandwiches and burgers to turkey saltimbocca -- the same for either area -- caters to a broad range of tastes. You can order a regional beer or go for a wonderful Barolo, offered by the glass.

Brian Kaywork, the chef, focuses on local ingredients when possible. The burger -- delicious, served with house-cut fries -- comes on a ciabatta roll from Tivoli Bread and Baking. The saltimbocca -- spicy, intense and lighter than the typical veal version -- is made with turkey breast from North Wind Farm, right down the road from the restaurant.

Mr. Kaywork forages his own mushrooms. In recent weeks he has been cooking with 10 different varieties. But what most impresses is his creative use of ingredients. A pennette pasta special (served as an appetizer or entree) came with his oyster mushrooms, artichoke hearts and broccoli rabe in a fennel cream sauce that combined the sweet and the savory to great effect. Braised lamb shank was another intriguing combination of tastes, its candied citrus zest and carrots appealing counterpoints to the saltiness and richness of the meat and green olives.

Appetizers are especially pleasing. Fried calamari, made with cornmeal and served with a tomato rosemary confit, was light and tender. Crab cakes were made with nice chunks of meat and the accompanying cumin-flavored slaw and sweet chili tartar sauce were terrific. The baked veal cannelloni featured pasta, house-made with chestnut flour, that was softer than white-flour pasta, with a bit of sweetness and a darker color; the taste, mixed with a braised veal stuffing and a cauliflower béchamel sauce, was complex but subtle. Oysters Madalin, baked with a fennel-caper butter, had us licking the shells even after the oysters were gone.

Occasionally Mr. Kaywork's combinations fall flat. The duck confit salad featured small, chewy pieces of duck and unexciting frisée lettuce. He can also overreach. The pan-seared salmon entree is made with a spiced chickpea purée that fights with the fish.

But most of the offerings are thoughtful and creative. Desserts are no exception. All were good, but the sheep's milk cheese and poached pear tartlet, pumpkin cheesecake and warm date and toffee pudding cake all offered unusual tastes that were perfectly matched to the season.

Many good upstate restaurants have been compromised by inept service, but Madalin's Table has a competent and friendly team. Even when the place gets crowded, the servers seem to be having fun at their jobs and are attentive without being oppressive.

They may even have a talent for romance. When a waitress took orders from the mismatched couple, she had them laughing and relaxing within minutes. By the time the two left, they were holding hands.

Madalin's Table: VERY GOOD

THE SPACE -- In a restored 1909 hotel, the restaurant has two rooms: a romantic dining room and a tavern, with tables centered around a bar. Both have wheelchair access.

THE CROWD -- Locals, second-home owners and adventurous Manhattanites. Recent celebrity sightings included Mikhail Baryshnikov and Sam Shepard and Jessica Lange.

THE BAR -- An ornately carved 19-foot dark wood centerpiece that serves delicious mixed drinks and has an intriguing wine list priced from $23 to $80.

THE BILL -- Entrees, $14 to $27.

WHAT WE LIKE -- Oysters Madalin, crab cakes and polenta torte; turkey saltimbocca, grilled pork chop, braised lamb shank and pennette pasta; sheep's milk cheese and poached pear tartlet, pumpkin cheesecake, warm date and toffee pudding cake.

IF YOU GO -- Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Closed Tuesday. No reservations, except for groups of six or more.   original review

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